[394] Guro's guide to offensive building and traps.

Salutations friends. Guro here with a brand spanking new guide to offensive building, spikes and traps. This guide was spawned mainly through my surprise at the lack of comprehensive guides on traps (I also needed an excuse to procrastinate studying). This guide will be an ongoing project of sorts. I wouldn't consider it complete it its current state. I will add more information to the guide as I gather motivation to do more research and take more pictures. I have given it a pretty good go though.

This is a fairly large guide, use CTRL + F to find something specific.

This guide is not the bible (or your respective significant religious/non religious text) for builders. Please do not treat it as such. Everyone is more than welcome to modify and change any and all designs in this thread in any way. Be sure to post them in the thread for the good of the community.
Feel free to like both these posts to help pad out my ego.

Version: 1.2.0

(I have tested all the designs in this thread extensively, but if you do find a design flaw be sure to let me know)

If you are a new builder you may wish to refer to one of the other general building guides, although I will cover basic concepts in this guide too. I'd recommend you start with this guide:https://forum.kag2d.com/threads/265-the-way-of-the-builder-a-general-guide.3136

If there are any terms you do not understand, please drop a comment of what it is you don't understand and I'll add it to a glossary section ASAP.
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This guide aims to:

1. Outline practical traps
2. Give suggestions on ways to utilize these traps to create effective temporary fortifications
3. Provide basic know-how and tips/tricks in regard to trap making and offensive building in general
4. Provide comprehensive tactics for offensive spike use and baiting
5. Provide tactics and knowledge on offensive building concepts

The Basics

Before we jump right on into the meat and potatoes of the guide, I'd like to offer some invaluable tips for trap making and building in general. If you consider yourself a confident builder then skip this part if you wish. Although I'd still recommend reading through this section anyway.

• Never dig spike pits. Ever. You would be hard pressed to find a situation where the time spent digging a big useless pit couldn't have been spent making towers, building shops or helping knights on the front line. Spike pits may be easily disabled, team bridges may be destroyed by bombs (which can make the pits hurt YOUR team more than the enemy) and the build-time:damage ratio is low. I will outline possible designs for efficient spike "pits" later in this post.
• Please practice and test your traps in sandbox first to make sure you've got the design right. You don't have to edit the config files to be able to test them, simply note if the spikes on your trap have any blood on them as you move through them. If they have blood on them, then you've spiked yourself and there's likely a design flaw you need to iron out. A faulty trap can mean death or injury for your team-mates, so it is paramount that designs (be they ones in this thread or ones you make yourself) are accurate and faultless. If you have access to a server, I would advise testing your traps with a compliant friend.
• Following on from the above point, when you commit a design to memory and practice it heavily, you ensure that your building is swift and accurate. This is important in the heat of battle.
• Please never place door hallways. That might seem like a really basic thing, but door hallways have been making a resurgence on the servers I play on. It's sort of supposed to go without saying, but obviously it needs to be mentioned more (especially with the constant influx of new players).
• Try not to place spikes where they will harm your team-mates. Even if you meant well, people may sometimes misinterpret your actions as griefing.
• Where possible, always stone up entrances to enemy buildings to block movement.
• Try to add at least some sort of overhang to your buildings to prevent archers climbing over and enemy builders directly laddering up your towers/buildings. More on overhangs in the overhang section (funnily enough).
• Always make sure that your forward buildings are at least 5 blocks high to prevent slash vaulting knights.

Offensive Building

Offensive building is simply building on the front lines. Any given offensive push has its chances of success dramatically increased by the presence of one or more offensive builders. Offensive building is something that every builder should be able to do and should be willing to do. Builders can ladder knights over enemy fortifications, restrict enemy movement, convert towers or build forward forts. There's no point sitting back at base to minecraft this huge superfluous structure or inefficient spike trap when your team-mates are without a builder on the front lines. Mobility for your team is invaluable in any situation. It really can make or break a push.

When taking an enemy tower, there are certain priorities which you would do well to remember. First of all: ALWAYS stone up enemy doors and entrances (if possible) as soon as you possibly can. If you are unable to stone up the door due to tree placement or bridge placement, ladder your knights up and over the tower, stone the door up from the inside and then build an overhang on top of the tower. As a general rule of thumb, it should go (in order of highest to lowest priority) Stone up doors -> ladder knights over -> build overhang, but there are always exceptions. My advice would be to use your best judgement. More on overhangs and overhang counters in the overhang section.
Learning a stable, efficient design for a forward tower would serve you extremely well as an offensive builder. If your knights are being killed and it's looking like you're going to have to beat a hasty retreat, being able to erect a structure quickly on the way back may allow enough time for more knights to arrive to start the push. This might not exactly be the best thread in regard to forward base design, but I'll outline some suggestions in the building section. The highest priority for setting up a forward tower is setting up an initial quick wall which will stop enemy forces. It only has to be one block thick and 5 blocks high, but you must reinforce it very quickly to prevent collapses at the hand of bombs or other builders.

This basic "T" can be evolved into a number of cheap forward buildings. It provides cover from archer fire and prevents archers climbing over it right from the get go. It's not particularly important to have a dedicated preliminary base structure though. It really depends on what you want for the finished result. Play around in sandbox and see what works for you. For more ideas for possibilities for forward buildings, check out this thread:

https://forum.kag2d.com/threads/complete-structure-compendium.5602/
I'll supply some more information about spikes in offensive building in the Baiting section of the guide. Generally though, spikes should be placed on the sides of structures as a last resort or while escaping and not while team mates are around (unless you really know what you're doing).

</br>--- merged: Jun 6, 2012 3:45 PM ---</br>
Basic Trap Designs.

I'm going to provide some information about several relatively simple traps that can be used in standard play. I will include some discussion about each trap along with a picture for the more visually inclined people on KAG forums (and because my description skills are probably lacking).

Pro-tip: learning the mechanics of the traps and why they work is an excellent way to formulate your own designs for traps and such.

Trap 1: The Guro Grinder

This trap is a favourite of mine. It's just fantastic. This picture above is the bare bones required for it to operate, so fortify it with stone and wall to increase the longevity. Adding only a couple of stone makes it unjumpable and unclimbable. The spike, team door and trap bridges can be repaired from safety (with care). God damn is this thing deadly. Completely safe for team mates to pass through either way, but when an enemy tries to approach (from the way I am standing in the picture) the bridges collapse and the enemy is gibbed in the blink of an eye.
The trap works by rapidly moving the enemy up and down on the spikes (a corner spike). The enemy is bounced up and down several times per second due to the collapsed team bridges creating awkward gaps. In order for the trap to work, the enemy must press and hold the directional button against the team door on the left hand side. It may sound dodgy, but it only takes a fraction of a second to kill a player. In fact it's almost instant. It may not fool experienced players, but you can easily bait people into it (more on baiting later) or use it as a powerful deterrent or door alternative when fortified. As with all traps and flimsy forward buildings, the main counters for this building are enemy builders and bombs. It is worth mentioning that this trap (Like almost all traps) can be repeated in succession to widen the kill zone.

Trap 2: Ol' Faithful

This trap is a perennial favourite. It's simple to build, doesn't require much resources and adds some welcome defence to the bottom of any tower. Like all traps, it requires maintenance after attacks from builders and knight bombs. This trap is best used near the base of a structure as mentioned above. It benefits greatly from repetition, so placing a longer version of this that is impossible to jump over as a knight may be worth your while. This (along with another couple traps) are the closest things to pit traps that I feel comfortable with recommending to people. It is possible to sink this trap into the ground to make it technically a pit trap, but building any type of pit-trap above ground is much much faster than digging it out.
The way it works is simple. When a friendly walks across it the bridge prevents them from falling into the spikes. When an enemy walks across the bridge collapses and they take damage no matter where they land. Simple and relatively effective.

Trap 3: The Spike Door

This trap is not particularly effective by itself, but when used as a substitute for a conventional door, provides enhanced protection. Friendlies can pass through the door with safety, but when an enemy tries to open the door they will jump into the spikes due to the gap below the start of the doors. To illustrate how this trap is supposed to be properly used, (as a door with increased defence) I will display a simple tower with this trap in mind.
.

It can repel knightless attack much better than a plain door can. It's a nice trick to have up your sleeve.

Trap 4: Guro's Spike Hole

This trap is a funny one. As you hide behind the initial wall, pressing up against the team door causes it to open. You can place a spike on the outside of the team door (or the block above it depending on which design you pick) which will fold back onto the wall when you move away from it. As a knight approaches to climb the wall, place the spike just as he jumps for a nice kill. This can be used in essentially any situation that permits it, as long as the team door is 3-4 blocks high off the ground, you can do significant damage to enemy knights. Observe the example below for a clearer picture of how it is supposed to operate.

The idea for the picture on the left is courtesy of Killatron46. The idea on the right it mine. It doesn't really matter that much, as both spikes are at the optimum height of 3 blocks from the ground.

TL;DR: place spike in red square and retreat. If you time it well, you can kill knights attacking your tower. The tower on the right has the added advantage of spiking instantly, so you don't have to retreat to close the team door to get kills. The tower on the left is slightly sturdier and harder to get over (also uses more resources). This tower may be combined/mixed with the Spike Door trap if you wish.

Note: It is worth mentioning that this building may be constructed from the "T" shaped preliminary design earlier in this post.
As KAG now has support physics, you must place a team door under the spike or lower the entire tower 1 block to place the spike diagonally upwards onto the stone block above the team door opening. Team bridge idea on the left is courtesy of Killatron46

This tower is flimsy but cheap. It relies on a builder manning the spike hole for it to be most efficient. The wall itself is fully repairable from the inside which helps to add to the poor defence of the tower. The beauty of it is how cheap it is and how many kills you can score with a quick finger. It takes almost no time to erect and is very cheap. A fairly nice simple tower. Make sure you have the team bridge boost-pad 2 spaces from the base of the tower though, so team mates can retreat into the door if the spike is up. A nice cheap forward tower that is effective on top of a ledge or between the enemy's base and a larger forward tower.
I'll post more trap designs once I get around to remaking the images in sandbox. The last 3 images refuse to open for whatever reason. I will update this section in the very near future. With the tower on the right, you may wish to extend the overhang by 1 block to prevent enemies jumping the tower using the team bridge (if the bridge gets damaged).

Baiting

Baiting is a term that I use to describe the action of killing players via luring them into some sort of deadly situation one way or another. Effective baiting revolves around spike placement on vertical surfaces or the clever placement of blocks in an apparatus. As you won't always have the correct apparatus for baiting set up, it is important to learn how to kill stuff without the use of an apparatus. It really all comes down to practice. There's only so much that words can do to teach people about these sorts of things.
The most versatile, practical and deadly form of baiting is done via the simple placement of a single spike. Spikes on vertical surfaces deal brutal amounts of damage when you slide against them. It is for this reason that baiting people into spikes is so effective. I'll use this example to describe exactly how to perform this technique. As you stand on top of something, be it a small stone pillar, a mound of dirt or a fortification of some sort. Stand next to the edge of your little perch. As a knight goes to jump to attack you, place a spike on the side of the top block and jump away. If you do this correctly he should die ~80-90% of the time. I will use a picture to demonstrate what I mean.

As the knight (represented by the gold bricks) goes to jump to reach you, place the spike where my cursor is (on the side of the top block). More often than not the knight will be killed instantly. Learning this skill allows you to kill pursuing knights with a well placed spike. The spike only costs 10 stone and grants you the potential to kill a pursuing knight. If you place the spike, you will be in no worse situation than you would have been had you not placed the spike. It's just one of those handy skills to have in your toolbox.
The sheer amount of options for baiting with traps and apparatuses means I'd be here forever. I will show you one way to kill things using a partially completed version of my favourite trap and that will be all for now. I may include more detail about baiting with an apparatus in the future, but this post is already absurdly long.

As the enemy approaches the structure, it appears to be a defunct trap. Just as they're about to reach you, place a team door or a piece of stone in the position shown. If you time it just right they will be killed by the trap. This works particularly well when you are being chased by a knight. A team door is the strongest block that is destructible in one hit, but is more expensive than a block of stone. A block of stone is more economic, but it means it takes longer to reset the bait trap. A block of stone may also provide mobility problems for your team retreating from battle. A lot of people don't know about the boost-pad trap bridge and neglect to use it to retreat, instead begging for me to ladder them up and over.
It's probably productive to mess around with friends on some traps to see how you can effectively bait people in to them. It's an amusing and rewarding way to play. If you have any other nice designs, be sure to post them in the thread.

 

Combat as Builder
Combat as builder is both fun and rewarding to learn and play. That said, it is probably the most difficult to learn and master out of all the combat options of all of the classes. Your main options for combat as builder will be:

1) Your trusty hammer
2) Stone drops
3) Bait spikes
4) Squishing/stomping
5) The mighty Catapult

Combat skill as a builder is extremely damaging and handy to have, but I don't think it should ever be the centre-point around which you build your play-style as builder. Outside of the Catapult and baiting, combat as a builder should be a fallback or a last resort sort of deal, not something that you should rely on to credit your team. But hey, that's just my opinion. If you want to try to try to be all heroic with a builder I'm not going to stop you

I'll try to dedicate as much information as possible to each one of the above techniques.

The Mighty Hammer
The hammer is a relatively short range melee weapon with a fast speed and low damage. It's not ideal for combat situations, but with practice it can get kills on weakened enemies. If you intend to kill a knight with your hammer, it is much more safe to attempt to kill a weakened knight. Builder vs Knight combat really just does come down to being a better player than the knight most of the time unless the knight is significantly weakened (and even then it's a bit of a gamble still).

Guro tip: Try to time yourself so that you can jump over the knight without being harmed if you are cornered.

Jumping over the knight and hitting him in the back can also score a hit once or twice if you're very careful about it. Though more skilled knights may be quicker to react with a shield to the back. It's all about timing really. It has some parallels to knight v knight combat in that way. You need to find ways to sneak an attack in after a knight's attack to get some damage in. Just make sure you don't over extend yourself, one slash combo is all it takes for you to be little neat chunks of tasty builder meat.

The situation is a little more simple for builder vs archer combat. On top of a building, an archer should be able to kill a lone builder in the open in most situations, but if the builder is able to get into melee range or get a stomp in, then the builder is likely to win. Most archers don't realize that builders will kill them in close combat most of the time.You know those sneaky little archers that think they're so clever climbing over your structure? They are fair game. It's all a cat and mouse game about who over-extends themselves first. If you're being pinned down by an archer on his tower and you have no reinforcements around, you have two viable, safe options and one much riskier one.

1) Build some shops/reinforce your tower and procrastinate until reinforcements arrive to help you push.
2) Build/use a cata and return the pressure in kind.
3) Attempt to take the castle your self.

The first two options are pretty obvious and safe, but the third one really has lots of variables to it and it's much much riskier. If there is more than one archer, you'll probably die. If the tower has multiple archer holes, you'll probably die as you try to ladder up and over to stone up doors. Rarely is the risk worth the reward, but I thought I'd include it here anyway as it is possible (and potentially very damaging). If there is only one archer guarding a crap tower and you manage to kill him, you can stone up the doors, build a stone overhang over the tower with a team door exit. Completely restricting enemy movement over that tower and pushing them back further and further. Use your best judgement though.

When using the hammer against fellow builders, ALWAYS try to get the first hit in. Be it a hammer strike or stomp, it doesn't matter. Just always try to get the first hit in. I cannot stress that enough. If everything goes pear shaped, and it comes down to a hitting contest, you'll always come out on top if you got the first hit. Of course the basics for builder combat are basically the same as the tactics for builder vs knight combat, jump over and try to get sneaky hits in etc, but make sure you get the first hit just in case you can't get those sneaky strikes in. Seriously I am going to bold that so you remember it. GET THE FIRST HIT IN.

Stone Drops
Nothing fancy here, just a nice practical way to murderize stuff. Attaching an unsupported shop tile to the side of a building, then placing stone along it creates a deadly trap. When the shop tile is destroyed (by you hopefully), the stone falls, crushing enemies. One block of stone MAY not be enough to kill a knight. It depends on how many times it hits them as it moves through them. Having multiple stone blocks increases the chance of death but also uses up more resources. Use your best judgment as to what is the right amount of stone to use.
Example:



If an enemy was weakened by the stone drop, you may be able to finish them off with your hammer or a stomp (or a combination of both). Be very cery careful to not harm team-mates with the stone drop. Or make sure it harms the enemy a hell of a lot more. Killing 5 enemy knights in exchange for one of your knights is a worthy trade-off in my opinion. Again; use your best judgement and don't be silly about it.

Bait Spikes
A crucial part of any builder's arsenal. Or at least it should be. That's what I am aiming for; I want more people to use this delicious little tool. I pretty much explained all I could about baiting in the baiting section. I find myself using this more than any other type of builder combat. It has the potential to kill many many people while leaving you completely unscathed. So useful. Please use it.


Squishing/Stomping
Another useful tool that the builder has in his arsenal. Jump off a ledge on to enemies to damage them. Put that fat sweaty builder booty to good use. A stomp will do at minimum 1 heart damage. That is half an archer's hp and a third of a knight's hp. Timing a hammer strike just as you land increases this damage to 1.5 hearts. That's 3/4 of an archer's HP and half a knight's HP. This "Hammer-stomp" is a very damaging technique. Use it to finish of knights with 1.5 hearts at the bottom of your tower, or as a handy first strike (do it) that really gives you the upper hand. Try not to repeatedly stomp on people, as they may get cluey and move out the way to avoid damage (which puts you in a bad situation). Be sure to practice the hammer-stomp with a friend if you're having difficulty pulling it off. I believe it's only do-able from below a certain height. Fall stun makes it impossible from super high ledges (or maybe I just suck at it). Use it sparingly, use it cleverly, use it well.

The Mighty Engine of Destruction: The Catapult.
The catapult is a useful tool, but one that I never go out of my way to use. If I can scalp an enemy team's catapult then I'll use it for a little while if the situation permits it. I think where the cata really shines is breaking stall/turtling though, especially when the unit count is at 0 on both sides and you need something to attempt to break turtling or overly defensive play. It puts a huge amount of pressure on the defending team and can be tough to push against. However it is also expensive, irritating to make and fairly easily destroyed, so I only ever really use it in rare circumstances. It also gobbles up stone faster than the furious fist of the north star, so I am hesitant to use my stone for ammo when it could be put to use in ways that are potentially more damaging.

I shamelessly stole that paragraph from one of my other posts, but my opinion has not changed. I'll add a whole separate section for the catapult in the next version of the guide.

Overhangs and Overhang Counters

Overhangs are fantastic. Nearly every building should have some form of overhang in my opinion. It increases the effort required by enemies to take your tower, prevents archers from climbing your tower and can be collapsed to kill enemies in some cases. An overhang of 4 blocks prevents builders from directly laddering up your tower and over your it. They must instead start from the ground near your tower and work all the way up and over, making them more vulnerable.
What it takes to ladder over a tower without and with an overhang:


There are several types of overhangs so I'll be all pretentious and invent lame little names for both of the main types.

Type 1: The Hard Overhang.


This overhang is most commonly used in an offensive situation. It's designed to restrict movement of enemies, more specifically to restrict them from climbing their own buildings. It's a simple design but one that I use a lot. If the tower (either one that you make or an enemy's) is less than 7 blocks off the ground, it may be accessed with a team-door boost-pad. By placing one of these on an enemy's fortification, you're essentially getting yourself a free tower. It may not be permanent, but it is incredibly useful. It places considerable pressure on the enemy as they are forced to defend as your team (hopefully) pushes with you. Placing these sorts of overhangs on enemy buildings is how you push for the flag. It helps you gain ground and if you managed to really take the tower and push the enemy way back, you can add in a more mobility friendly overhang/shops/etc.

Tip: A hard overhang can just consist of a stone drop if you're really going to for kill-value.

You can add a bit of weight to the top of the overhang in the form of more stone blocks, and neglect the backwall to make an overhang that collapses when a builder tries to destroy it. If the builder is killed, just build it again immediately. They're wasting stock and time and you're only wasting resources. Or if you're really clever you could add a neat little trip-switch of sorts which lets you decide when to pull the plug on the overhang. Check it out yo.


If the enemy manages to destroy the overhang blocks closest to the tower, you get the final say on when the overhang collapses. Smack that shop tile and it all comes crashing down. Neato. It's kinda gimmicky but I'm including it in here anyway because it has potential.

Type 2: Soft Overhangs


Soft overhangs are team friendly overhangs used in more conventional building. You might find variations of them in potentially any building, but most commonly on fortifications at the top of a hill. This overhang is less heavy duty and much easier to destroy, but allows team mates to slip through the overhang or tower in one way or another. There really is a great deal of variation in these sorts of overhangs, and you can get really creative with them. I like to add small spike traps to my soft overhangs because I am paranoid and any excuse to use spikes is a good one in my book. But seriously, go nuts. The designs for soft overhangs range from really simple to basing an entire tower/trap around a modified overhang.

You might like to convert a hard overhang on an enemy tower to a soft overhang if you've managed to capture another tower in front of you. It makes mobility and healing just that much easier and can be a game winner. People getting through and over the building with the flag is essential, and hard overhangs make that a little more difficult. It's all pretty self explanatory. As with traps, there are endless possibilities for soft overhangs, so I'll just post a couple ones of varying complexity.



The overhangs here go from complex to simple. The first tower is the sort of overhang you base an entire tower around. It's not an add-on so to speak, but a dedicated, separate building unto itself. The middle one is slightly less complex. it contains a nice stone drop and spike trap to make it a little tougher to take down. Better value for money. The overhang on the far right is about as basic as it gets. It's something you add to a tower when you're low on resources or in a tight situation. It's not going to hold back much of anything in the way of pressure, but it does its job well enough. Feel free to add, extend, modify or do whatever to any and all of these overhangs. That goes for everything else in this guide too. Experimentation is key!

(I'll post a write up about that first building/overhang in the trap section. It's pretty cool if I do say so myself).
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That's the long and short of it essentially, I'll add more information when I get around to it. Not just in this section, but in the other weaker parts of the guide. I am aware that this guide may have mistakes or errors in it, so if you find any mistakes be sure to let me know. Above all I hope this guide can teach somebody something. I spent a decent amount of time on it but it was a labour of love I suppose. This guide will be updated periodically with more information as I muster motivation to polish it off.
Post feedback, trap designs and discoveries in the thread.
Thank-you very much for taking the time to read this guide. I hope it was informative

Feel free to like both these posts to help pad out my ego.

 

Unfortunately, it seems you've procrastinated too long. Guro's Grandiose Overhang Counter was only able to be used by the public for a couple hours before it got shafted by the supports update.

Fortunately, the rest of your guide is still useful.

 

For Guro's Grinder, what if they just hop over it?

 

This has a ton of useful info, good job putting it together!

One thing though, try to make your forward buildings at least 5 tall, because knights can slash vault 4 tiles.

 

The last minute spike at the corner of a 3 or above tile wall can be used extremely effective in tunnels as well against almost all enemy units, because the darkness covers the spike. So, when the enemy rushes at you just place the spike at the corner and above. You might want to add another section for offensive tunnel building since in tunnels it is usually builders.

 

I had never seen it used before. You'll have to forgive me.

I think you may have missed where I mentioned that it was the basic bare bones required for it to work. Spending an extra few stone on some wall and a couple of blocks to make it unjumpable is really paramount to its success. I'll post pictures of the versions of traps I use and some buildings that actually incorporate 1 or more of the traps in a future update.

I thought I mentioned that in the guide but I have obviously overlooked it. Thank-you for pointing that out. I'll add it in soon.

I'm not really an authority on tunneling unfortunately. It's a useful strategy in some cases but I'm not sure it has enough depth to warrant me dedicating a whole new section to tunneling. I'll include an analysis of the viability of tunneling in the next update though.

EDIT: Thank-you for the feedback.

 

Currently researching and writing for several sections of the guide. In the works now:

1) Builder Combat (against all classes)
2) Analysis on tunneling
3) Practical uses for wood in traps
4) More traps

A couple of the traps require an update due to them not working in the new build. As this guide is intended to be updated regularly for new builds, would it be ok if a mod changed the build in the title to [415] after all the information is up to date and relevant?

 

Amazing work, I am looking forward to more guides from you in the near future, very informative and creative. Thank you Guro!

 

Nice work Guro! you always put in heaps of effort into your posts, the buildings were really helpful! Thanks!

 

Baiting into "defunct" trap is genius.

 

My only issue is using the dirt backwall glitch to bypass the supports mechanic. It's an exploit and, well... Yeah.

Otherwise, some of these are really great and I'm gonna have to try them out!

 

Those traps are slightly viable except for the dirt wall glitch and the spike hole is nothing original at all. Though the trap you came up with took a small innovative step and that's where credit is acceptably due. Though, these inventions or "late discoveries" would help in small scale matches as opposed to massive ctf rounds.

 

By the way,

This trap:






Is harder to make with the way support works now, so I recommend putting:






A bridge so you can still place the spike at the last second.

 

I love it, I've been using your grinder as a front section for my cross killatron Strathos tower. Thanks!

 

Oh its not mine, its Wyeth's. See his thread here.


This build, I'm finding that a builder can wreck havoc more than usual on knights, I don't know what changed but I can kill people more easily as a builder this build.

 

wow so much usefull information :D thanks! btw does anyone know any good traps/builder tricks against
archers :( as a builder in 50% of cases i get killed by an archer!

 

I would just suggest building bunkers everywhere and taking out trees.